Tag Archives: cool hotel

Cool Venice Apartment: chilled Cannaregio

9 Mar

lounge & dining area @ cool venice apartment (Image by HWL)

Searching for accommodation in Venice meant wading through websites offering a fearful combination of the fussy, the twee and the bland. Then, somehow, we stumbled across the self-described ‘Cool Venice Apartment’ on Facebook. Set in the Cannaregio district of Venice (a five minute walk from Ca d’Oro), the apartment is owned by a group of like-minded friends who pooled together for a two-bedroom pad in Venice. (And why wouldn’t you?)

Great things about the location – Venice is tiny so once you get your head around the maze factor everything is within walking distance. For us it made sense to steer clear of the heavily touristed San Marco and set ourselves up near useful things such as a bakery, supermarket, well-priced cicheti bars and some of Venice’s best restaurants!  Staying around here will also enable you to soak up the neighbourhood atmosphere without too much danger of being elbowed by tour groups over breakfast.

textures: ceiling beams, terrazzo & arched windows (Image: HWL)

Traditional Venetian flats are set over three floors – the first floor is essentially an entry way/storage area with staircase (left vacant presumably as a flood precaution), second floor is the living area and the third floor is for bedrooms. In this case the flat occupies only the first two floors, but is nonetheless extremely generous in size. While the master bedroom is a bit bigger with more clothes storage the second bedroom (with twin beds) is very light and spacious so there’s really no need for anyone to feel like they’ve drawn the short straw. The flat has lovely views from most rooms, the kitchen is well-equipped, and the bathroom has a jacuzzi (noisy, but after all that walking around its worth a try at least once).

Continue reading →

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Hotels We Love in London: Zetter Townhouse

17 Feb

No shame in being bookish @ the Zetter Townhouse (Image by Jefferson Smith)

The hotel: The 13-room Zetter Townhouse offers cosy digs with a ‘my great aunt lived in India’ club-house feel; it opens onto the pleasing St John’s Square in Clerkenwell, just across from the original Zetter Hotel.

Rm. 4 suggests you lie back & think of Cool Britannia: but its stumpy four-poster is not recommended for long-legged lovers. (Image by Jefferson Smith)

The neighbourhood: The ye olde neighbourhood of Clerkenwell could be described as ‘hidden in plain view’. While even Londoners struggle to locate it, it could hardly be more central; it is walking distance to Shoreditch, Barbican, Convent Garden, Soho, and Islington. Nearby cultural institutions include the Tate Modern, the Barbican and Sadler’s Wells dance theatre. The closest tube (Farringdon) is just one station from Kings Cross St Pancras. The neighbourhood is peppered with creative businesses, the odd residential loft conversion and the remains of the old city walls. It has more than its fair share of tasty eating options nearby in Exmouth Market and the historic meat market at Smithfields.

Hello Kitty: Yes, it seems the in-house cat is quite stuffed (Image by HWL)

The vibe: Club house meets country house in a distinctly English (read eccentric) vein. The fit-out is the product of months of trawling through action houses and estate sales for club lounges, bric-a-brac, circus off-casts and oddities, such as a stuffed kangaroo for the dining room. (Begetting the question: why doesn’t everybody have one?) Continue reading →

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Hotels We Love in Shanghai: Waterhouse

18 Jan

'You Should Have Loved Me', Tracey Enim's emotional plea on display at the Waterhouse Hotel in the unsentimental city of Shanghai. (Image by HWL)

The writers Franz Kafka and Italo Calvino were capable of imagining some pretty odd sh*t, but even they might be surprised to see extracts of their work being exploited by a boutique hotel in Shanghai. Quotes from the writers appear randomly stencilled throughout the building. (E.g: Memory is redundant: it repeats signs so that the city can begin to exist – from Calvino’s Invisible Cities). Not that we hold it against them. Our cynical side rolls over and plays dead in the face of ‘onwards-and-upwards’ Shanghai. A spot of esoteric quotation, however gimmicky, is welcome in this robot city where memories are butterflies quickly crushed …

The lobby's stained concrete and soaring ceilings provide a backdrop to an ironic paper chandelier by Mooi (Image by HWL)

The Waterhouse on the South Bund in Shanghai is a boutique hotel development by Singaporean hotelier and restaurateur Loh Lik Peng who is also behind other faves including Hotel 1929 in Singapore and Viajante restaurant in London. Designed by NHDRO, the 19 room establishment is strung across three interconnected 1930′s warehouses situated along the docks of Huangpu River. With its rough, dilapidated exterior and clever re-use of low-rise industrial spaces the hotel gives the big finger to shiny, high-rise Shanghai.

Industrial exterior of Waterhouse Hotel, Shanghai (Image by HWL)

Throughout the hotel are hints – both natural and contrived – of the building’s former life as docks warehouse and interestingly, if more ominously, as a former Japanese Army HQ. Rust, concrete stains, crumbling concrete pillars (augmented by new, structurally sound posts) and aging bricks imprinted with their original manufacturing stamps…all this whispers of the historic hustle and bustle of a trading port city.

'As long as you don't stop climbing, the stairs won't end' a quote by Franz Kafka is used to tease guests at the Waterhouse Hotel in Shanghai. (Image by HWL)

Navigation and viewpoints within the hotel reference the interplay between public and private space in China’s maze-like hutong neighbourhoods: a narrow staircase may take you somewhere…or nowhere…while windows enable stolen glimpses on walkways and public spaces.  The rooms and communal spaces are decked out in a spare industrial palette of concrete, stainless steel and glass, but the effect is softened with an eclectic collection of iconic chairs (a trick used to effect in previous projects like Hotel 1929) and contemporary art works that give a splash and dash of colour.

Money, that's what I want. Art bling at the Waterhouse Hotel, Shanghai (Image by HWL)

Staff quip that the suites here boast Shanghai’s only, ahem, ‘beach views’ – a manmade strip of sand, a volleyball net and other faux seaside hi-jinx lining the river. (It cries out for Martin Parr.) We like the rough luxe mix of lovely linens and spacious digs with utilitarian details, like enamel drinking mugs. The smaller rooms are generous in size with all the usual requirements – desk, reading chair etc and while there is no ‘seaside view’, they are bright, light and cosy.

One of the sizeable smaller rooms at the Waterhouse Hotel, Shanghai (image by HWL)

Pros: Cool design, great rooms. Additionally, the rooftop affords a fabulous view of Shanghai’s sky-scraping skyline (notably the Shanghai Financial Center designed by Kohn Pederson Fox) without having to battle it out with the crowds jostling for a commemorative photograph – subsequently immortalised on a souvenir mug or mouse pad (although this too has a certain eccentric appeal). We also like the bar area where the industrial feel of the space is cut up into convivial sitting areas with lots of interesting chairs.

Start dictating: desk in a standard room at the Waterhouse Hotel, Shanghai (Image by HWL)

Cons: While central, the isolated location means you will have to cab everywhere. Tips: Before setting out for the hotel, do print out an address and map with characters in Mandarin or your cab will not understand where to deliver you, this is true of any taxi travel in Shanghai, but particularly in this case where the address is a little odd. There are a few eateries nearby in the self-consciously historic Cool Docks development, it does feel a little bit naff, but it’ll certainly serve you for a quick bite or an evening’s tipple.

The lobby-slash-bar at the Waterhouse Hotel in Shanghai doubles as a sort of designer chair showroom. (Image by HWL)

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Hotels We Love in: Shanghai

17 Dec

Urbn lobby features slate tiles salvaged from the French Concession and re-formed into artful geometrics (Image by HWL)

In the dystopian megapolis that is Shanghai you are unlikely to overdose on bucolic peace and quiet. Urbn, Shanghai’s first carbon-neutral hotel, brings life back to human scale. Of all the hotels we’ve seen this year, Urbn is one of the loveliest: if all hotels were like this one, there’s be no need for us to create this blog at all!

Relax: rustic timbers and well-worn lounges in the lobby hotel & bar at Urbn, Shanghai (Image by HWL)

The second you walk into Urbn’s courtyard you leave the stress – and endless traffic jams of Shanghai – behind. The hotel restaurant and bar area are ideal for chilling out or meeting up with friends and colleagues. The atmosphere is warm, friendly and unrushed.

Make mine an Olivetti! Retro technology at Urbn Hotel, Shanghai (Image by HWL)

The 26-room hotel situated in a renovated 70′s era postal building is made predominantly of recycled or salvaged materials – think reclaimed timber flooring, bricks and slate rescued from demolition sites in the French Concession. The elements have subsequently been rebuilt into artful forms that bring a warm patina to this contemporary building. We also liked the occasional retro detail in the decoration – old biscuit tins and displays of ‘early technology’ which gives the place a bit of a quirk while avoiding an overblown sideshow of kitsch. Full points need to go to the design team: AOO Architecture and  Tais Cabral interior for creating a warm space that keeps you thinking.

Any more Zen and you'd be in Japan: the Penthouse suite at Urbn Hotel, Shanghai

The generously sized guest rooms are fitted out in a modernist-meets-Asiatic minimalist palette in simple materials: timber, slate, glass and natural fabrics. The Studio rooms have lovely sunken baths, Atrium rooms have a sitting area comprised of a wrap-around bank of day-bed like couches, well-suited to lolling about or napping. If you are feeling tree-deprived, go for a Garden or Courtyard room for a view onto some greenery – the higher up the better.

Slate & terry towelling, nicely contrasting textures in the bathroom at Urbn Hotel, Shanghai (Image by HWL)

Those in a cashed-up sort of mood: the Penthouse suite with its stone bath and built in chaise-longue is wonderfully calming and you’ll enjoy a lovely view through the trees overlooking red roof-tops. A low-rise view is definitely something to be treasured in Shanghai!

A welcome patch of greenery hits a winter sunburst at Urbn Hotel, Shanghai (Image by HWL)

The predominantly low-rise neighbourhood of Jing’An with it’s ecclectic mix of low-fi and fashionable stores and restaurants is also handy for varied supplies or eating out when you don’t feel like venturing very far.

Dappled light on the facade of Urbn Hotel, Shanghai (Image by HWL)

Tips: Do take advantage of the complimentary bikes and take a cruise around the neighbourhood.

Booking: Contact the URBN Hotel. And keep an eye on their website for news for their forthcoming ventures in Pudong…

Our Perfect Day in Shanghai: see our travel tips here…

Simple comforts, nifty lamps and warm timber in the standard rooms at Urbn Hotel, Shanghai (Image by HWL)

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Going PUBLIC in Chicago

11 Nov

The library: snuggle up in a furry chair with a frothy cappuccino and a flaming fire

A hip hotel on the cheap.

Situated in a 1926 art deco gem in the heart of Chicago’s Gold Coast district, PUBLIC is the first hotel to be launched in Ian Schrager’s new ‘budget boutique’  hotel line – or as he puts  it ‘essential luxury’, don’t mind the contradiction. Hotelier and real estate magnate Schrager made his name – and notoriety – as co-owner of Studio 54 way-back-when before pioneering the boutique hotel concept with Morgans, New York, in the 1980′s.

The Pump Room, a former favourite of the stars, now draws luminaries with this light constellation

Prior to its opening we – cycnics that we are – figured Schrager was simply cashing in on the trend led by hipster hotel groups such as the ACE, Mexico’s Grupo Habita or the German 25Hours. And maybe he is. But fortunately Schrager has been around long enough to know that 60-something year old men do not look good in skinny, low-hung pants and Public has wisely avoided the ironic quirkiness and cooler-than-thou attitude of, say, the ACE. The hotel’s photogenic communal areas – bar, lobby, library – have been blasted with enough of Schrager’s trademark OTT design to optimise the glam-wow-slash-buzz factor. In contrast the hotel rooms are kook-free, more neutral and grown-up friendly, we like the retention of some deco detailing such as wainscoting and in some case, even fireplaces.

Chicago is known for its speakeasies but you may have to shout at the Pump Room

Thumbs Up: To all reports, the hotel is not just a pretty face and the Public is getting rave reviews about its service – which doesn’t surprise us too much given the innate hospitality of the Mid-West. The Pump Room restaurant and bar is also winning fans. Something of a Chicago icon, it was hard to mess with the Pump Room with its old-timey glamour, portraits of regulars a la Sinatra, Bogart etc without p***ing people off. No doubt some regulars are still muttering into their baseball caps and find its current incarnation a tokenistic travesty but while we’re always sad to see nostalgia go, we can’t miss what we never knew, and word is people are happy with the reworked spaces and inclusive menu. Note, Booth ‘Number One’ previously reserved for  mega celebrities has been preserved and retains the original telephone dating from the time when big-wigs were so big they could even use a phone at the dining table. (Confession: I stole that crack from the NYT.)

Cool minimalism means this chair was forced to rug up...

Tips: If you’re thinking of a quiet night in on the weekend, don’t expect to have the joint to yourself – Friday and Saturday nights draw in the local eye candy looking to party. On the upside, you don’t have to go out!

Room to improve: The primary issue seems to be sound travelling through the walls of some rooms, and the size of the smaller category rooms (though the latter seems a bit nit-picky given the prices).  As always, avoid rooms close to the elevators if you can. Is there anybody on the planet who doesn’t like the convenience of enjoying the odd hot beverage in their room? We thought not. For this reason we lament the lack of kettle facilities.

We like: Complimentary bikes! Free Wi-Fi in the rooms. (Thank goodness for common sense.)

We like the deco feel of the custom light fittings in the standard room

Location: The hotel is situated in the upmarket residential Gold Coast district, a 20 minute walk to the Magnificent Mile – add a further 20 minutes to reach Millennium Park. It’s just a few blocks from the Lake Michigan beach where you can meander, jog or cycle along the Lakefront trail – borrow a free bike from the hotel. Nearby attractions: architecture fans may like to drop in for a tour of the beautifully restored Charnley–Persky House, designed by architect Louis Sullivan and a young draftsman he just happened to have working in the office by the name of Frank Lloyd Wright. Window shop your preferred mansion in the nearby Astor Street district.

Rates: Currently starting from $135, Public definitely undercuts the competition on the lower-priced room categories. Note: as usual, the smaller the cost of the room, the smaller the room.

Booking: Contact the Public Hotel Chicago

Thank God for democracy: The Public's motto is 'For Everyone' which means even the wealthy are welcome!

Alternative Chicago hotels: You might also like to check out our review of the Monaco Hotel situated on the Chicago River downtown. Other options include: the The James, Chicago’s luxe offering in the design hotel category. The Sax Chicago Hotel which has a sort of eccentric glam rock sensibility. Or The Affina which is chic and lovely without trying too hard.

Lullaby: Dream big as you fall asleep to this dreamy soundscape by Chicago-based Panda Riot.

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CPH Living, Copenhagen: Floating World

1 Nov

Ahoy Sailor: Lobby of Copenhagen's only B'otel

GUEST REVIEW: SALLY O’BRIEN

The Hosts: There are five people in charge of CPH Living: Henrik and Hans Henrik (a social worker and goldsmith respectively), plus the Hede family from Zealand: dad Jørgen and his children Mrrianne and Michael.

The neighbourhood: Christianshavn, a small man-made island dating from the 17th century, is one of Copenhagen’s hippest and most central neighbourhoods. It’s home to charming cafes, thousands of bicycles, the long-running Free Town of Christiania, rustic half-timbered buildings, public housing and modern apartment blocks sheltering typical Danish good taste. It’s also the home of the world’s best restaurant, Noma.

CPH Living? Don't mind if we do. Pictured: Roof-top terrace at sundown, exterior by day & night, hotel room and a Danish breakfast buffet.

The boat: Originally a German barge, the SS CPH Living embarked on her journey of transformation when she was dragged to Poland, extended in size and then refurbished in a Tallinn shipyard. In Spring 2008, she crossed the Baltic Sea and docked at Langebrogade 1C, before opening for business in June 2009.

The double-storey reception/breakfast area affords great views of the dark and brooding architectural gem that is Den Sorte Diamant (The Black Diamond; ), an extension of the Royal Library designed by schmidt hammer lassen, it’s not a bad spot to start an architectural reconnaissance of the city (guided tours available).

The rooftop area is entirely dependent on the weather–we scored grey skies and light drizzle during our stay, but it’s easy to see that on a sunny day it would make a perfect spot to plot the day’s activities, or recover from them with a sun-downer (which, this being Scandinavia, will take place long after dinner).

Other than these two communal areas, every other possible space is devoted to the hotel’s dozen rooms.

Room with a view: Room no.1 of the floating hotel

The room:  Rooms are compact, but with typical Danish aplomb, the storage solutions are natty and it’s all clean lines, original artworks, wooden flooring, comfortable bedding and as much natural light as possible (thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows in every room). Bathrooms are stark, marine-hued and spotless and make good use of their limited dimensions, although we’re not sure why they need a window onto the sleeping area. If you’re travelling with someone you’re not on nudity terms with, it could get a little awkward.

Whether you’re aware of the rocking of the boat is a personal thing. We couldn’t feel it at all, our travel companion did. What will be harder to ignore is the music coming from the Tivoli amusement park during summer nights and carries across the water: light sleepers, pack some earplugs.

Black Beauty: architectural icon Den Sorte Diamant hulks across the water in the distance

What we loved:  How often do you get to sleep on a boat in the middle of a busy metropolis? Why can’t we do this sort of thing more often in maritime cities?

The closeness to the heart of things (Copenhagen is admirably compact and most things will be within walking distance if you’re moderately fit) yet the sense that we were staying somewhere special, a little off-grid: this is the only boat-el in Copenhagen.

Christianshavn itself is an intriguing mix of boho families, local hipsters, Greenlanders hanging out on the island’s main square and the denizens of the Free Town Christiania. Spending a day exploring its streets and squares is an easy pleasure for flâneurs.

Sophie Gråbøl's iconic sweater in Forbrydelsen Series 1 (The Killing)

Get into the mood: If you’re heading to CPH in the colder, darker months (anything outside July and August it sometimes seems!) then the gritty, rain-soaked crime drama Forbrydelsen (The Killing) is a must. Starring Sophie Gråbøl and Lars Mikkelsen, and available on DVD, the first series throws up more red herrings than a Danish buffet and is singlehandedly responsible for the revival of traditional Danish pullovers (you can buy one here).

Peter Høeg's novel is partially set in Christianshavn near-by.

Read (or re-read) Peter Høeg’s wonderful Miss Smilla’s Feeling for Snow, which is partly set in the public housing projects of Christianshavn. The Danes do strong heroines like no one else.

Tips: There’s a breakfast buffet and vending machines for drinks and snacks, but if you really need good coffee (which can be hard to find in the city), and some fine baked goods, take an easy 10-minute stroll to arty Islands Brygge (just keep going after passing under Langebro — the bridge to your left as you face the hotel from the street) and stock up on great bread and pastries at Wulff + Konstali Food Shop (Isafjordsgade 10), or continue for another few minutes to either Food Shop No 26 (Thorhavnsgade 26 ) or Emmerys (Islands Brygge 79D), which both do scrumptious breakfast and snack offerings and really decent coffee.

Danish pastries: breakfast at CPH Living, Copenhagen.

Tariff: A room costs from DKK1000 (€135; £117; US$186; CHF165; AUD$180)

Contact Info: CPH Living; Langebrogade 1C, DK-1411, Copenhagen (see map here).

If it’s full: see other Hotels We Love in Copenhagen

Suggested lullaby:  In keeping with a brooding noir theme, Help the Dead, by Danish duo Murder: A little bit mellow, a little bit spooky, a lot beautiful.

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The talented travel writer Sally O'Brien

ABOUT SALLY: Sally O’Brien has written about travel, food and hotels for a number of publishers and publications, including Lonely Planet, Vogue Entertaining + Travel, Qantas, easyJet, the Sydney Morning Herald and Olive, covering cities such as Copenhagen, Bilbao, Geneva, Sydney, Madrid, Berlin, Turin and Basel. She’s lived in Seoul, Sydney, Melbourne and Lausanne and can be found at her website or her blog Swissing Around. Despite dropping her bags in hundreds of different places to stay over the years, she still gets het up about a great home away from home.

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Hotels We Love in Paris: Bonjour (Hi)-Matic

18 Oct

Business as usual: Hanging Five at the Hi-Matic Hotel in Paris.

So, we’ve been meaning to blog about the Hi-Matic Hotel in Paris for a while now… But we’ve just come across this little video (below), and we reckon it pretty much does the job for us, so perhaps it will do for now? The 42 room Hi-Matic Hotel by Matali Crasset, Patrick Elouarghi and Philippe Chatelet in the fashionable 11th district is reasonably priced (think around the €100+ range), is in a cool neighbourhood (bobo central) and promotes a green ethos.

The Princess and the Pod, at the Hi-Matic Hotel, Paris

The hotel plays around with interesting ideas, such as rooms that fold away Japanese-style during the day and funny, chopped up living spaces reminiscent of cubby houses or half-built lofts with jewel-like colours. The costs are kept down due to the DIY (auto-’matic’) of the check-in procedure etc – there’s no staff, you simply collect a key and let yourself in. Perks: Vending machine offering snacks, books and toys. A dainty (read well-chosen, if not copious) organic (‘bio’) breakfast served on trays a la ‘in-flight’. Tips: Note that sleeping/bathroom arrangements are small and, for lack of a better word, ‘intimate’. Room to Improve: There do seem to be some issues with clothes/luggage storage and overall practicality of the design. Approach in the spirit of weekend’s living experiment! (And enjoy!)

*****

If you’re staying at the Hi-Hotel, definitely try to book a table at the lovely Septime. If it’s too pricey or you can’t score a table, the tiny Le Mouton Noir (‘Black Sheep’) Mouton on the same street is pretty good and reasonably priced, but do ask for on street level (downstairs is damp,while the mezzanine is claustrophobic).

Booking: Hi-Matic Hotel

*****

One of the hotel’s collaborators, the rather whimsical designer Matali Crasset known for her colourful and playful takes on furniture, is currently responsible for an odd little installation at the Pompidou Centre; Blobterre, a sort of growing greenery installation in the children’s section. We reckon a Hi-Matic Hotel + Blobterre could make a suitable quirky machine-for-living meets the Triffids sort of weekend. (Especially right now with Paris in full art swing with FIAC, and off-events such as Slick Paris and some amazing shows on at the Pompidou etc.)

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Hotels We Love in London: The Hoxton

13 Oct

Uncommon common area @ the Hoxton Hotel, London

Cool, Cheap, London, Hotel. Pick any three. Every couple of months we get an email from a  far-flung friend or colleague saying something like: “Can you recommend a cool hotel in London that’s not too expensive?” Having lived in London for the past few years, we can say that this is no easy request, especially for those travelling under their own steam (ie: not on expenses) and carrying a weaker currency. And maybe that’s why we’ve been procrastinating posting about London hotels! A couple of months ago our friend John Ryan sent us the usual hotel/London/CanYouRecommend? email. We sent him a bunch of ideas, and  he ended up at the Hoxton in Shoreditch. Finally, it looks like we can fill the above request with ease.

So John, tell us a bit about it: The public restaurant/bar area at the Hoxton is beyond hipsters – fairly pricey food (and average, although it is London I guess) and dumb beautiful people giving service. But the hotel side is just lovely. Very friendly staff (like, not ‘Have a nice day’ types… friendly like your friends … conversational, not transactional). There’s also the lovely attitude: when I booked, the invoice had a line item that said something like “Pointless taxes” with a “0″. When I checked out, the account was headed “The Damage”. And every little sign and instruction had that same tone and voice. A sticker on the window showing you how to open it was titled “Stupid Sign #41″…

Neon dreaming: Hoxton Hotel, London

So, what did you like?: A great spot, made even better by their z-card brochure featuring their recommended places around the neighbourhood. It’s available on their site too (see here). Super! How else would I have known where I could get a 50 quid shave?! (I did get the shave; don’t tell my wife!)
*
Rooms: Stylish, small, very comfortable. Hand-etched art on the wall! Lovely toiletries. And  – almost best of all  – you get a little brown bag in your room and hang it on your door, and in the morning there’s a fresh OJ, a banana and a yoghurt with muesli (from Pret). It’s yum.

Cosy digs with arty etchings: a typical room at the Hoxton Hotel, London

What did you love?: But best of all was the price. I looked for places within 30 mins travel time of [my conference] with free WiFi. That was my search. The Hoxton was EASILY the cheapest I could find, aside from slum houses totally discredited on sites like Trip Advisor (God love ‘em). I was totally price-conscious, and not looking for a status joint. Turned out I stayed at a pretty cool joint.

London, in’it? Hoxton Hotel, tried out something new with ‘East End’ themed hotel rooms. Just now we’re not sure whether to expect a hotel-wide roll-out of the Grandmother-meets-hobo makeover.

Booking: contact the Hoxton Hotel. If you’re quick on the draw, register for the Hoxton’s £1 room sales.
HWL Tips:  If you stay here, our favourite haunts in the ‘hood are: Coffee: Story Book Cafe: noisy, bar-meets-coffee shop with board games and ping-pong. (100-106 Leonard St, EC2A 4RH) Baked goods: Leila’s Shop: cool, organic style homely cafe that has great coffee, slabs of cake and cheese platter meals. Just near the White Cube gallery on Hoxton Square. (17 Calvert Avenue, E2 7JP)

Clash of civilisations: reading a local mag over coffee & ginger bread at Leila’s Shop, Shoreditch (Image by HWL)

Cheap & Cheerful Dinner: Cay Tre: Cool, reasonably priced and very tasty Vietnamese restaurant which offers the usual classics plus some more original house specials, eg: a quail and aubergine curry hot-pot (yum). (301 Old St, EC1V 9LA; Tel: 020 7729 8662) Or try their unimaginatively named but more glamorous premises nearby at Viet Grill. Drinks: for a casual sporting atmos, try Bar Kick, featuring table foot and reasonably priced cocktails; for speakeasy with a jazz twang, try The Night Jar. A cool night out: Bistroteque: hipster restaurant and bar in Hackney (take a cab). The bar is like Cuba circa 1960. The restaurant is a white, concrete loft with some of London’s cutest looking waiters. They have good menu du jour deals for early diners. Book ahead. Ideally combined with an art gallery hop along Vyner St as part of First Thursday openings. (23-27 Wadeson St, E2 9DR; Tel: 020 8983 7900.)

Stone, paper, scissors: Hoxton Hotel, London

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ABOUT JOHN: John Ryan is a travel content veteran and all round digital guru. He was the managing editor of Lonelyplanet.com and the site received several Webbys during his tenure. He also co-authored the very odd and shamelessly eccentric Micronations about real life non-UN recognised countries, such as the self-proclaimed empire, the Republic of Whangamomona, where the presidency was shared between a poodle and a goat. These days John can be found in Melbourne where he  runs his own website strategy agency, the hiply named Sitegeist. He also does a mean air guitar.

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Hotels We Love: in Melbourne

10 Oct

Hello Alice! Melbourne laneway art (Image by HWL)

Melbourne is a city that works on it. It doesn’t sit back and rest on its laurels, it doesn’t try to get by on its looks. Melbourne is a city that prides itself on great food (mostly at reasonably prices) and excellent independent coffee (it’s a town that showed zero interest in Starbucks) and a dynamic and entrepreneurial grass-roots art and design scene.  It’s a city in a state of continual evolution and exploring it can take on the dimension of a treasure hunt. Confession: Melbourne is our (adopted) home town, and although we are penning this from the other side of the globe, we share the common Melbourne trait of taking pride in the city – and wanting to share it with others. If you strike up a conversation with somebody, don’t be surprised if they start scribbling their favourite restaurants or cafes on a napkin for you.

Shanghai love nest in Alkira Apartment, Melbourne (Image credit: Paul Healy photography)

While the majority of Melbournians still live in the suburbs the CBD is undoubtedly the city’s playground with an impressive density of restaurants, cafes, bars and art galleries etc.  For this reason, the CBD remains our preferred address in Melbourne, though it must be said that noise and natural light (or lack thereof) can be issues. We’ve listed a few good ideas for the CBD as well as the city’s south side. For what’s on in Melbourne, regardless of where you stay, check out The Broadsheet and Melbourne 3000. (By the way, if you book any of the following on our advice, please tell them we sent you! And if you have experiences – good or bad – we’d like to hear them.  :-) )

The Alkira Apartment offers art deco digs fitted out in a vintage/loft style.  We asked the owner, Michelle Francis, to tell us a bit about the design. She says, “The facade of the building is art deco – which we love – but it was converted into apartments in the 80’s and very few deco features remain, so we decided to go for quite a bold aesthetic rather than trying to replicate the original style.  The deco exterior is quite stunning – the glass tiles that form the central panel of the building were the first use of glass tiles in Australia and the green, black and white terracotta tiles are geometric and quite mesmerising. The architect, James Wardrop also did the  Shrine of Remembrance, a Melbourne landmark.  Internally, we’ve incorporated a couple of blocks of really strong colour: a vermillion red in the study/reading room; a moss green in the kitchen; and a feature wall of gorgeous embossed Osborne and Little wallpaper, but the rest of the space is pretty neutral to play up the light and space.

The study has an Asian theme, the rest is more of an eclectic retro sleek look with a few collectibles as well as some plain quirky bits (such as the life sized torso of a yellow crash test dummy). The living area is glossy (coated) raw concrete which shows up all the wonderful imperfections such as paint drops from over the decades.  There’s a lush wool aubergine carpet in the bedroom for bare feet in the mornings.”

Alkira: a homely retro aesthetic that says 'Melbourne' (Image credit: Paul Healy photography)

Perks: We love the mix-it-up aesthetic of the interiors – a bohemian twist on the right side of vintage – it feels very Melbourne. Michelle is no stranger to hospitality; she used to own a restaurant on the great Ocean Road; and we like the thoughtfulness of supplies such as coffee paraphernalia, books and magazines. While Queen St overall isn’t our favourite strip in the CBD (though we like the trees) the apartment is at the right end of the city which puts you in the heart of everything, and the location means that you could also collect tasty local produce from the nearby Queen Victoria Market and cook it up in your very own kitchen. Tips: Note that while the bedroom does have a window, it opens onto a light-well, which means it is not as luminous as the living areas. On the upside, you should be protected from city traffic noise. Also note, there’s no hotel-style concierge service. Michelle offers a few great ideas for local cafes. “We love Hardware Societe  for their absolutely superb breakfast menu, three blocks away. But if you just want to ‘duck out’ for a quick bite, Sparrow’s Nest nearby is great.  Seven Seeds cafe  Brother Baba Buddah can’t be missed for an excellent coffee.

Billiard Room: the Lindrum wants you to feel at home (Image credit: Hamilton Lund)

Hotel Lindrum: Small, cosy and a stone’s throw from Federation Square, the Lindrum is on the parent-friendly school of interior design but we like the lounge room-style lobby complete with pool table and the coffee-bar check-in.  The Lindrum has always managed to be fashionable without necessarily being hip, it’s civilised without being stuffy, and friendly without being overly familiar. It’s no longer shiny and brand new but you can count on all the mod-cons and comforts of a good hotel on a personal scale. Perks: It’s not a hipster hotel, but it’s the kind of place everyone can feel comfortable.  Room to improve: A hotel of this calibre should offer free wi-fi in the rooms! Tips: If you want views and loads of natural light (and who doesn’t?) book a Deluxe room with the bay windows. Other room categories may look onto alleyways etc. If breakfast is not included in the rate, you’re a short stroll to Degraves St etc where there are oodles of cafe choices.

Our tip: the 'deluxe rooms' with bay windows are the most luminous. (Image credit: Hamilton Lund)

Having trawled through the listings on Air B&B we think this is the most interesting option in the CBD. Loft Apartment – Heritage Building: In the historic Bible House, a late 1800′s building and former printers, is a loft apartment that will appeal to creative types. Situated on Flinders Lane, the heart of Melbourne’s fashion district, it’s fitted out with loads of artistic and personal touches. The site doesn’t show the bedroom, but it mentions Third Drawer Down linen, a local brand founded by an ex-Craft Victoria curator who started out making limited edition tea-towels featuring work by local artists and has since expanded into all kinds of other exciting artistic merchandise. For artistic pedigree, you can’t fault it. Perks: Location! This is one of the most exciting parts of the city – step out, and you’re in it. Tips: It’s in the middle of the city within a dense network of alleys, so keep in mind that views will not be expansive. You may also hear some street noise. The owner lists all kinds of tips on attractions in the local area.

Fast track your way into Melbourne's creative scene

We're converts: stay at Bible House in Melbourne

The Adelphi – we were going to recommend this 90′s icon by local architects Denton Corker Marshall, the city’s first boutique hotel with its trademark rooftop swimming pool. But we were troubled by two things; firstly they failed to respond to two emails asking for publicity photos to publish on the blog (we’re still waiting…). This reminded us of previous occasions where they have been similarly unhelpful, which doesn’t bode well for customer service. Secondly, we had a look around on the internet, and reviews suggest the hotel is now looking a little tired. So now we’re hesitating about including it… Perks: the rooftop bar has an amazing views over the city and its overhanging swimming pool is an enduring novelty (not to mention a healthy, if vertiginous, way to start the day). Note that the pool/bar area is sometimes closed to guests during corporate events, namely in the summer. (Think December.) The location is smack bang in a good bit of the city, and if the concrete laneways get too much, you’re not far from Treasury gardens etc.

Adelphi Hotel Melbourne

Tip: There are construction works opposite the hotel during 2011 so do check before you make a booking as it could be noisy. In general ask for a room overlooking the street, not the side alleys. (A ‘New York style view’ is code for ‘view of an alley with little natural light’.) To avoid disappointment, note that views are not on the menu here, it is not the hotel’s fault – it’s just the reality of its location (surrounded by alleys), as is some street noise. If breakfast is not included, don’t worry, this area is home to some of Melbourne’s best cafes and breakfast haunts.

Brooklyn Arts Hotel: This joint has popped up in Melbourne since we were last in town. Located on George St, Fitzroy, it’s a retro little hotel aimed at the creatively inclined. Vintage-style furnishings and quirky touches like snowdome collections and kitsch art work are the order of the day.

Grandmotherly vintage chic at the Brookly Arts Hotel, Fitzroy

Perks: Great location, within reach of the restaurants and cafes of Brunswick St, the galleries of Gertrude St and a short walk to the CBD. Also on the menu, a yummy breakfast with good bread, and a  friendly atmosphere with like-minded guests. Staying in a terrace will give you an idea of the local architecture. Tips: Speaking from personal experience, these big old Victorian mansions aren’t exactly sound-proof. Bring ear-plugs! (I used to live in one, also on George St, with an unlikely combination of people including a bemusingly pony-tailed cyclone-predictor from Darwin, a shivering samba dancer from Bahia and a sort of paper mache robot that lived on the balcony). Ask your friendly hostess Maggie to organise a cute bike rental from The Humble Vintage during your stay.

Brooklyn Arts Hotel: vintage Dreams in Fitzroy, Melbourne (Image embedded from the talented leaaaah on Flickr)

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT: Melbournites are creatures of habit and they tend to stick to the north or the south of the city depending on where they live. To generalise: the inner north is more indie, more creative, and cheaper,  the ethnic mix is arguably more diverse, and the restaurants cater to all budgets. The inner south is leafier, slicker and more expensive. It’s home to accounting execs and BMXs. More generalisations: bits like Toorak, are conservative and old money, bits like Prahran are young and gay friendly, and bits like Elwood/St Kilda East have a strong Jewish community, beachside access and an indie shopping strip. St Kilda itself is popular with backpackers and suburban tourists.

In South Yarra, our friend Andy Mac who runs Citylights Projects tells us he’s heard good things from artists who stayed at The Albany  hotel. They’ve recently refurbished a boxy 50′s ‘motel’ and offer cool rooms at reasonable prices with a rock n’ roll kind of aesthetic. We like the honesty on the website – they clearly state which room categories have had a minor make-over and which have had the full botox and stomach stapling.

Retro dining area at the Albany Hotel

Perks: It’s got a pool, a retro cafe and a relaxed vibe.  Plus the location near Chapel St etc is great. Room to improve: We get the impression that housekeeping is below par in the older rooms, the rooms with minor renovations are superficial at best, and that noise from other guests is an issue, especially if you are on the ground floor. If you are fastidious or a light sleeper, perhaps it’s best to avoid. Tips: To avoid disappointment, our suggestion is to book a fully and newly renovated room, such as the Pool Club Deluxe, that way you can be assured that everything is clean and new.

Our tip: it's best to book a renovated Pool Club Deluxe room at the Albany, Melbourne

In St Kilda,  The Prince is still the flashiest boutique hotel this side of town although, admittedly, the design, which was noted for its ice-cool minimalism is no longer as up to date as it was. (In the meantime, the Millennium ‘bug’ has also gone out of fashion.) Architectural credits go to Hecker Guthrie (who also had a hand in luxe Fjäll ski lodge, Falls Creek); while Wood/Marsh took care of the deck and day spa zones (on another scale and genre, visitors should visit another of their projects: ACCA, contemporary art space.) The in-house restaurant has been given a bit of a hipster-friendly re-furb and is now warmer and welcomes guests for drinks and nibbles, but still offers excellent in-house dining. Not that you’d need to eat there – there are so many fantastic options near by. Perks: the Prince still offers a sense of glamour and wow-factor. Aesop products in the rooms. Room to improve: Some people complain about the size of the basic rooms and the dark corridors – we kind of like the corridors though admittedly, it may help to have a miner’s helmet light on hand. But the real issue since day one is noise from the bar etc. Tips: The hotel is part of a complex which has live music – if you score a room too close to the band room you may find yourself bugged by music/reverberation. Not so cool if you’re paying cold hard cash for a good night’s sleep! Pack ear plugs or get some from reception. If you want a view, go for a superior room or at least confirm a ‘street vista’ in the Deluxe room category (some are internal looking).

The Prince hotel dining room gets a bit of a hipster make-over

Deluxe room @ the Prince Hotel, Melbourne. Our tip: request a street vista.

Confession: we’ve never been to The Hatton but this 20 room hotel in a grand old mansion gets great reviews, and as far as a small, personable hotel on this side of town goes, we challenge you to find better. Perks: Location, the South Yarra location is not hipster central, but it is restful, just near the beautiful Royal Botanic Gardens and a nice shopping/cafe strip which will meet most of your eating needs. On a sunny day you’ll enjoy a glass of local wine on the roof top.  Tips: The smallest room category is, well, smallish!

Front entry and bar at the Hatton

Standard room @ the Hatton Hotel, Melbourne

Musician’s Elwood Apartment: We have an enduring soft-spot for the beachside suburb of Elwood, in particular its art-deco flats which are beautifully proportioned, warm and welcoming. This flat with lots of original historic features is owned by a couple of local musos and comes with its own grand piano! It’s located on one of the area’s streets named after writers and poets and is close to our favourite little park in Melbourne, the St Kilda Botanic Gardens, and the iconic local cafe, Jerry’s Milk Bar.

Warm and welcoming, kitchen and dining area with restored fireplace...

Perks: The owner has kitted it out with all the mod cons and interesting touches, such as books devoted to music and other interests. If you stay here you’re close to the canals and beach reserve, so there’s plenty of opportunities for strolling and soaking up the atmos. Tips: The bedroom is small!  – it’s definitely a ‘climb in situation’, so the living areas are the real drawcard here. If you’re into music you should check out who’s playing at the Espy in St Kilda, despite the lack of sticky carpet, the increasingly gentrified Esplande Hotel is still a fixture on the local indie music circuit. Note: One of our favourite things to do in Melbourne on a Sunday is going to the  Wall 280 cafe on Carlisle St, in East St Kilda nearby, getting coffee and a sweet treat, then collecting fresh bagels and toppings from Glicks up the road (be prepared to queue, the ‘staff’ seem to be kids fresh from the kibbutz). Then take the whole lot back for a picnic/newspaper reading session at the aforementioned St Kilda Botanic Gardens. Admittedly you’ll need wheeled transport if the coffee is to remain hot!)

Make yourself at home in Elwood...

St Kilda: for the flashies among you, this slick flat in St Kilda offers the comforts of a hotel with the mod-cons of a new apartment and a sunny balcony. It also epitomises the ambitions of many aspirational South-siders to live in a cool, inner-city designer pad near the beach. (And why wouldn’t you?) Original art works help lend some character to the place and a typically Melbourne fastidiousness about chichi design and providing excellent in-house coffee is in evidence.

Sheridan crisp, white 1000-thread-count bed linen: count us in!

Perks: Complimentary and quality breakfast goodies, like organic muslie, are on offer. Free parking is available if you have a car (a definite plus on this side of town). Location! Lots of pubs, bookshops and restaurants abound and it’s just a short stroll to the Esplanade.  Plus it’s close to Pelican (16 Fitzroy St, St Kilda, Melbourne), a cafe we are somewhat fond of for the great coffee and the warm architectural fit-out, by local firm Six Degrees. (Note that service can be on the slack side if you order something more ambitious than a cuppa.) Tips: If you like to start your day with exercise, try a run along the beach or take a dip at the St Kilda Baths.

Blanco appliances and designer dishware: lifestyle a la St Kilda

I’m an artist: If you are artistically inclined, you could try applying for a long-haul artist residency, why not start with the friendly, ‘no deadlines’ approach offered by Wardlow in Fitzroy? Otherwise, there are more formal residencies on offer at Gertrude Contemporary (more popularly known as ‘Gertrude 200′), one of the city’s leading exhibition spaces, also in Fitzroy. Or try the more indie Seventh down the road.

Live differently: apply for an artist residency in Melbourne (Image © Gertrude Contemporary)

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FAME Festival: guide to the epicentre of street art

22 Jul

Street artist Erica al Cane offers a delightfully unlikely interpretation of a symbiotic relationship (Image by HWL)

We’re in a run-down house put to artistic use in a large garden populated by mud and odd bits of broken glass. A sort of mosh-pit has formed under the veranda where Angelo Milano, covered in glitter like a grunge version of Gold Finger, is spinning like a demented top while the crowd thrashes out – bemusingly – to re-mixes of 90′s dance hits. Above us, a very big, very pink cartoonish penis has been spray-painted across the ceiling. The overall ambiance is akin to a fertility rite as imagined by Keith Haring and manifested in Italy via Google translator. The location is Studio Cromie, Grottaglie, Italy, an unlikely epicentre of street art. The occasion, closing night of the FAME Festival which had begun oh-so-civilly with a gallery opening and dinner hosted at Milano’s grandfather’s house.

Nunca predicts the Euro fall-out in Grottaglie (Image by HWL)

Founded by Angelo Milano of Studio Cromie, FAME references both the Warholian 15 minutes and the Italian word for ‘Hunger’; particularly pertinent in this historically poverty-stricken part of southern Italy that still falters behind the prosperous north.

In the lead-up to the festival in September, the elite of the world’s street artists descend on Grottaglie to paint the walls of neglected buildings, apartment blocks and laneways in the historic quarter, transforming it into a maze of art, Big Ideas, strange tales, satirical jokes and unexpected presences. The festival centres around a gallery exhibition where attendees can purchase tangible artworks, chiefly prints, which helps fund the festival and keeps Studio Cromie ticking over. (If you can’t make it to the festival prints are available for purchase online and obviously the street murals are open all year around.)

Work by British street artist Lucy McLauchlin at FAME Festival gallery, 2010. (Image by HWL)

ARTISTS: This year you can expect to see Italian artists BLU, superstar of the scene, Erica al Cane  whose animal-themed works are incredibly cute and twisty and 108. The Euro contingent includes the witty and incisive ESCIF, wall-sculptor Vhils and the German artist Boris Hoppek. Brits include Word to Mother and the lovely Lucy McLauchlan (last year her works so pleased the neighbours that they bought her drinks and snacks while she worked). Also keep your eyes peeled for US paste-up star Swoon and the geometrically inclined Momo. See the FAME Festival website for a complete list.

Street artists Ben Ellis & Blu at the Monastery (Image by HWL)

TIPS: The festival is fairly organic so keep your eyes open and follow the crowd. In the event that you miss something crucial, e.g. the address for the closing party, try this technique: drive/walk around Grottaglie looking for hipsters and when you find some, just ask where the party is! (Grottaglie is a small town. ) Anyone wanting to visit the festival should check out the FAME Festival website but based on our experience, we thought we’d pull together some of the gaps with a bit of a travel guide for the uninitiated.

GET AROUND: The art is spread across the city and Grottaglie doesn’t do public transport. Plenty of people explore the murals on foot, but there’s no doubt that having a car will speed things up and also enable you to do some regional tourism. We rented a Fiat 500 and it was perfect for the region’s winding laneways. (Regional tourism lures include cutsie whitewashed villages, such as Ostuni and Martina Franca nearby, and beautiful coastline villages such as Gallipoli. Also note food is unbelievably good and cheap.) Failing that, a bike is a good compromise. (See here for info train travel in Italy with a bike.) The nearest international airports are Brindisi and Bari.

LOOK AT ART: Studio Cromie makes a handy little map to the town’s street art which you can collect from the gallery on the opening night.  (Bottega Papocchia, Via Caravaggio, Ceramics Quarter, Map link: here.)

Conor Harrington at the Monastery, Grottaglie, Italy (Image by HWL)

The spooky rambling Monastery on the edge of town has inspired some amazing art (watch our Monastery video) but can be tricky to find.

Look for a big red building up on the hill off Via 25 Luglio on your right hand side. It has a sign ‘Instituti Provinciali di Benificenza’ which you can glimpse on this map link: here.)

EAT & DRINK: Note that restaurant hours across Puglia are disconcertingly short – arrive too late and you’ll go hungry (arrive respectively by 1pm/8pm for lunch/dinner). This is particularly unfortunate at lunchtime when all the shops close for the afternoon siesta thus dashing your dreams of a quick bakery run.

Roadtesting Osteria Il Piatto Reale Enoteca (We went back for more!)

Osteria Il Piatto Reale Enoteca: traditional family run joint with friendly service and excellent regional cuisine at reasonable (mid-market) prices. It’s extremely popular for Sunday lunch so book ahead, or be prepared to queue for hours – seated guests will go the full three-courses and then linger over the coffee while your tummy growls. (Via Cavour, 13, Grottaglie. Closed Wednesdays.)

Pizzeria il Forno: Excellent cheap pizza (from €6) in an enormous, rustic barn-like room. It’s very popular with families on a Friday and Saturday night (and why wouldn’t it be?) so arrive early for a quick bite or book in advance. (Via Sicilia, 14/Via Foggia, 12. Tel: 099-5638-927. Closed Tuesdays. May be closed at lunchtime.)

A homely atmosphere at Pizzeria il Forno, unless you are a pig. (Image by HWL)

Caffè-Libreria Nomine Rosae: An atypically minimalist arty book store meets drinkery with pared back wood interior and bright red chairs. This is where to find the cool crowd. (Via Risorgimento, 5-7, Centro Storico.)

Vine Caffe’ Di De Giorgio Maria: a typical low-key joint to grab coffee or drinks in thee historic quarter – in good weather you can enjoy the terrace on the plaza.(Piazza Regina Margherita, 16, next to the Salita Immacolta church. Map ref: here.)

SLEEP: Grottaglie isn’t tourist central, so the level of accommodation is not as exciting as that available in some of the more scenic villages elsewhere (eg: Ostuni, Martina Franca). However, if you don’t have a car – or even if you do – it’s definitely the most convenient option for festival go-ers. On the upside, the pricing is very reasonable  starting from €35/40 for a single room.

Il Bato B&B, Grottaglie

Il Bato B&B: A characterful 18th century house (pictured above) featuring locally made ceramics and materials (we like the looks of the antique floor tiles). It’s situated behind a church in the historic quarter, is very reasonably priced and has free wi-fi. We didn’t stay there, but this could be the pick of the bunch.

Sogni d’Oro: The rooms are plain, but you can bet they’ve been scrubbed to within an inch of their life. The drawcard here seems to be the view and roof-top terrace and a bit of a ceramics theme, given it’s location in the ceramics district.

Maschere Grottagliesi: Situated in a Renaissance building in the historic quarter, it offers three rooms named by different colours. Thanks to the traditional architecture, the bedrooms might be a little on the dark side, but the website does say “the rooms are all furnished with gusto and creativity and respect the ancient structure of the house…making you feel comfortable and cuddled.” We like the sounds of feeling ‘cuddled’ especially when coupled with comic sans.

Gill Hotel: Angelo organises a special rate for FAME festival guests. It’s a serviceable hotel outside of the historic quarter, rooms are spacious and comfortable enough and perfectly clean. It won’t win any awards unless there’s a prize for ‘exhaustive use of the colour coral’, but it’s central and does the job. Avoid the dismal breakfast area – just around the corner you can have coffee, pastries and juice at the friendly and extremely popular neighbourhood cafe Zelig Bar (Via Amendola, 15, 74023 Grottaglie). The exterior is unpromising, but it’s nice inside. Hotel booking: info@gillhotel.it

Surprisingly atmospheric: Grottaglie, Italy

TAKE A HOLIDAY: Grottaglie is surrounded by lovely villages (Ostuni, Martina Franca, UNESCO-heritage listed Alberobello) –which are quite well set up for tourism. If you have a car you could stay somewhere a bit more exciting (like a hobbit-like trulli house or glam masseria) during the festival – or tack on a holiday at the end of it. Follow this link for info about tourist jaunts and alternative accommodation in Puglia.

GET EXCITED!: Check out the video we made about FAME Festival 2010 for Babelgum below.

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