Beautiful yet slightly spooky lakes and birch tree forests form part of the natural setting in Henning Mankell’s Swedish detective series featuring Ystad detective Kurt Wallander. (Image by HWL)
Those who know us will know of our, admittedly tragic, fixation with the fictitious detective that is Henning Mankell‘s Kurt Wallander. What they may not know is that this fixation prompted a summer holiday in Skane, Sweden… Visitor’s attempting to undertake a similar pilgrimage can check out this (exhaustive) site dedicated to all things Wallander/Skane. We hope our photos might inspire your own travels…
It’s hard to say what makes Wallander such an endearing character: grumpy, isolated, impatient, sceptical, angry and hopeless… The characteristics that would make Wallander so unlikeable in person, also render him humane. In his weakness and pain we see ourselves, but for the grace of God go I… It’s Wallander’s humanity and the sense of melancholy imbued in the Swedish landscape rather than the convoluted plots and intrigues, that gives Mankell the crown of Scandanavian crime. (If you will permit us a side rant, the BBC TV production of Wallander totally missed the humanity in Kurt, concentrating only on dysfunction; we recommend the original Swedish version by Yellow Bird which is not only more faithful to the characters, it also acts as a compliment to the book series, the British series simply replicates them.) In the event you haven’t read them, other Swedish crime writers worth trying are: Maj Sjowall and Per Wahloo, Hakan Nesser and of course, the ubiquitous Stieg Larsson. (If you find those too cheerful, head north to Iceland’s Arnaldur Indridason. )
Mariagatan: the street where Wallander lives for all of Henning Mankell’s novels except for the final installment ‘The Troubled Man’. It is here that he lives in his dysfunctional bachelor flat, occasionally day dreaming about getting a dog and moving to a better life by the sea. (Image by HWL)
Would-be Wallanders should watch out for Polish ferries, there could be anything on board. Contraband, people smugglers, serial killers and duty free vodka; just about anything can be found in Ystad Harbour. (Image by HWL)
Medieval times could be tough, but they hardly compare with the danger of modern-day Ystad. (Image by HWL)
Wallander has his own table at the traditional Continental Hotel, Ystad, despite not existing. This is where he comes for special occassions, even though his policeman’s wage doesn’t allow as many visits as he would like. Don’t let your guard down though, death can come when you least expect it. (Image by HWL)
Adrift; come heaven or high water. Wallander experiences several life-changing and emotional experiences on Mossby Beach. It is here that Linda tells him that she wants to become a police officer, something which touches and reassures him greatly given their sometimes tempestuous relationship. (Image by HWL)
Keep your eyes peeled for mysterious pebble configurations on Skane’s beaches. (Image by HWL)
Wheat crops, yellow rape fields…poppies…we had our camera at the ready and eyes peeled in the event of any mysterious events in rural Skane just outside Ystad… (Image by HWL)
A local church references the salty sea dog atmos of Sweden’s Skane. (Image by HWL)
The Twisting Torso designed by architect Santiago Calatrava tells you you are in Malmo; Mankell’s crime capital of Southern Sweden. It is here that Wallander began his career as a police officer. (Image by HWL)
The old police station in Malmo, this is where Wallander has to go when cases get particularly tricky; there’s always a risk that his ‘big city’ colleagues will interfere and dismiss him as a small-town cop. We, of course, know better. You can enjoy the station’s scenic exterior with a coffee in the garden. (Image by HWL)
Kurt Wallander doesn’t do ‘Zen’ very well. Admittedly, the serial killers don’t help. In Malmo, we recommend checking out Ribersborgs Kallbadhus, the natural sea bathhouse, where we enjoyed floating on this pontoon (pictured) before braving the sea-view sauna filled with very naked (and strangely hairless) Swedes. Follow it up with a novel-reading session of coffee at a hipster cafe such as Solde Kaffebar.
You must stop in Kivik for an apple burst thirst quencher. (Image by HWL)
The little boat that could in Kivik. (Image by HWL)
Flying the flag in a Swedish forest: traditional red cabin. (Image by HWL)
Another reason to sleep in? While Sweden’s forests are delightful, early morning joggers beware: there appear to be corpses lying around in wait for the likes of you! (Image by HWL)
Love the photographs and editorial. What a treat to see all those Wallander places. I agree totally Krister Henriksson IS Wallander. Have u written more of crime novel? if u have would love to read it. Has so much potential and deserves to be completed??? masses of love to you both. xxxxx
Oh, thank you Julia! The novel is still bubbling away in the background…hoping that the plot will somehow, magically resolve itself! (Pls let us know if you would like to visit Paris – home to Fred Vargas’ most dreamy detective: Jean-Baptiste Adamsberg.)